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Gray Coverage
Gray coverage can be a tricky thing…in fact, I worked beside a stylist that had a client come back every 2 weeks and show her how the color was wearing off!!! Wearing off?? Color does not wear off!....OMG this lady's hair was GROWING, yes growing in 2 weeks she could see the faint white line starting to reappear around her hair line!...yep with some people, given the amount of gray and their hair style…it IS possible to see a little "re-growth" showing through in 2 weeks (ask any double process blond!)
Okay, simple gray coverage…there are a few things to consider.How much gray does the client have? 10 %, 50%, 75%, 100%?
What kind of coverage are they looking for? Are they looking for what some call 'modern coverage'?
This is where the gray is softly blended & softened but not totally covered..Or are they looking for it to be totally covered? And then one has to go back to formulation.
What is the natural level? What is my desired level? Am I lifting or depositing? Assuming you have done all that….and the gray hair is not covering… Make sure you are getting enough color on the hair and applying to the scalp and hair.
The 1st step to take:
Covering resistant gray hair…Pre-softening with Heat…works wonders
Pre heat a hood dryer WHILE you are applying the color to the re-growth area.
Cover client's hair with a plastic cap.
Place under a medium warm dryer and leave for 5-10 min. Then take client out and remove cap and then process for original process time…usually 30-50 min.
This process helps to sufficiently open the cuticle of resistant gray hair enabling the color to penetrate easier and thus provide better gray coverage.
For more information, contact Karen at kpisano@italyhairfashion.com